Says a lot that it can run pretty much maintenance free for a year and a half! I only had issues with my mk3s doing daily enclosed abs prints in the summer, the original petg softened and it ended up killing the idler end of the x axis (idler mount deformed suddenly under tension after like… 1-2 months of that). They may not be the fastest or fanciest but they’re easy to service and in my experience pretty reliable, I repacked the linear bearings after a year or so out of precaution when I did a full rebuild, but I don’t expect needing to do that for a long time.

Here’s another prusa article for infill patterns, the prusa knowledge base is really decent and applicable to a variety of printers, I use my voron a lot but still refer to it.

Grid infill is crossing, get a decent blob or buildup and you could have nozzle collision, I personally like gyroid but it is slower.

Had a similar failure on the mk3s, what does the belt tension test return? Stealth mode may help or be the cause, anecdotally I’ve seen mention of motor temps, the old rambo board running stock firmware they got toasty when printing in the enclosure in the summer, stealth helped me limp it along until I did a board swap and changed to klipper. I don’t know if this is an issue with the mk4 as that’s not using the older Rambo based boards, but something to consider as well, had it happen even after I did the first abs rebuild.

Edit: too tight can also cause issues, not necessarily skipping but having it trigger the virtual endstop, prusa has an article for troubleshooting layer shifting. Also probably with checking both axis to ensure they’re smooth and consistent across travel, seen an over tight x carriage back cause too much resistance and have false triggers.

I’ll third it, I used Solidworks before, freecad was fairly easy to adapt to before the 1.0 release, workflow is even nicer now, trying to convince my dad to move to freecad over paying for a sw subscription now that he’s retired.

I’m not sure how bambu studio does it (use prusa/superslicer) but chiming in because I was trying to figure this out last year doing a large ish batch of keychains for a friend and was fighting a bit with it, probably is a way of doing it all in freecad but the image was my biggest issue.

I ended up doing things in blender to subtract the image and the slicer itself, did a text object, positioned it where I wanted, merged the objects and marked the text as a negative volume (think that’s the term, might be subtract) so it was subtracted when I sliced it, might help in your case?

I was wondering if it was some sort of alignment/clamp for something like pipes or rods, or maybe some sort of bushing/bearing holders (think linear rods). Your tuning looks great btw, look pretty nice even in the worst case lighting conditions, adhesion not an issue doing this way? My dad asked me to print some stuff he designed for his beekeeping tools, has a bearing surface that’s awkward to print accurately, I’m probably going to revisit that with this as inspiration, other than the helper ears I see on the build plate anything else you did?

To ask questions, for the application does dimensional accuracy actually matter? AFAIK rebar isn’t exactly the tightest wrt tolerances (I know flat products, not long products, but knowing what hotroll coils look like I’m assuming it’s similar), could probably have gotten away with a different orientation and could probably have avoided supports (I find arches print nicely). Having said that though, thinking strength might be another reason to print the way you did, face down and you have shear & torsion in between layers, thinking that’s still a concern if you printed it standing, but yeah, just thoughts.

Edit: also spy kapton tape, did you find the bubble insulation made much of a difference? I’m putting what’s basically heat barrier fabric on the interior as a first try, I grabbed some rock wool and bubble insulation but it’s thick enough that I’m mildly concerned with it interfering with the gantry, having everything off for some refurb and wow I forgot just how close everything is, they really didn’t waste space eh?

Softening and that, maybe? But it really depends on the filament brand too, as far as I’m aware, acetone doesn’t readily dissolve in acetone which is what’s meant by not doing much

Petg is pretty resistant, why PETs used for bottles.

Personal experience cleaning up clogged nozzles by immersing them, yeah acetone barely touched the petg

880s were my daily drivers for a decade, I have a set of 1990s now but I still really recommend the 880s, super comfortable and great for pretty much anything I used them for. Personally never saw the point to gaming branded stuff, a good set of open/semi open reference headphones is pretty much ideal for gaming.

I got the dbrand grip for it with stick grips, it’s actually really nice to hold, certainly better than my switch lite (seriously that thing gives me RSI, really needed something to grip onto.) Which also has a kickstand attachment if you want. It’s overall though very comfortable, I find it better to hold up over propping it up with something, seems to keep it at a more natural angle for me.

I also switched to clicky buttons on mine, it’s definitely a preference but they feel better to me vs the stock ones on my partner’s.

Petg inside the enclosed though can definitely have a short service life, the original x axis idler on my mk3s gave up the ghost after a month or so of pretty consistent printing of abs in the summer, had expected it so i the first thing I did in abs was a set of prusa spares which lasted until I did a bear mod last year.
There’s obviously variation in filament though so YMMV, petg is still a solid material to use if you don’t have an enclosure (though I’m always recommending then if only for gasses and fine particles while printing)

What type of filament? Acetone doesn’t do much to things like pla or petg, stuff that works aren’t things you generally want around the house, industrial solvents and stuff. The jar of acetone can soften it up some but you’ll need to soak for some time, I’ve used MEK too, but that’s in the “don’t keep that at home” category, it’s really flammable and should use ppe (I mean should use ppe for a lot of the stuff we use, 99% IPA is harsh on your skin, I use nitriles because it irritates my hands something fierce.)

Cold pull as others recommended, nozzles are consumables, def should keep some around. Cleaning filament works pretty well in my experience if you have a partial clog.

I’ve been there though, first block I didn’t use a sock and the set screws got encased in degraded petg, I ended up scrapping it and putting it on the shelf as a learning moment, def recommend a sock if you don’t have, it’s saved me a lot of grief.