Not that I’m an expert, but I could have sworn I’ve seen people in the past who were talking about accidentally messing with the physical stuff involved with the headphone jack when they hard drive swapped.
I might be misremembering but just wanted to suggest that you may want to check into whether it could be physical, and not software related, because if you’re troubleshooting the wrong cause you can get stuck on it for quite a while.
Hey, I figured out what I had done wrong, I dropped the files in the wrong place. Everything seems to be working now.
If you’re still struggling, this YT video shows you where you have to put everything to get it all to work. If CachyOS is Arch based it should be pretty similar.
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So I’m 0-1 so far (Samsung-screened SD OLED). Tried Baldur’s Gate 3 with a large variety of settings, it either crashed upon boot or booted with no video.
I know it’s a DX11 game so it rarely agrees with tools like this, but I was hoping, lol. If I try anything else, I’ll edit this same post so as not to take over the thread.
EDIT: OMG. Make that 1-1. It was user error, I’d accidentally slid the files into the folder next door instead of the plugins folder.
After fixing it, I booted it up and… WOW. I already had BG3 set to 720p Balanced, after doing the x3 multiplier (because who cares about input lag in this game) I’m now up into the 75 to 90 FPS range.
This is absolutely NUTS, I’ve never consistently gotten more than 30 on the Deck on this game. What a game changer, at least for non-action games. Will have to see how bad the input lag feels on action titles, but just speeding up modern/slower RPGs alone is a big, big thing.
Since it didn’t crash you, but didn’t seem to kick in, check and make sure that you’re not full screen on your in-game settings. Go windowed or bordered instead.
I have used it a handful of times on Windows and that was always a prereq to get it to do anything.
Thanks for the heads up!
I have a couple of RPGs where I have zero concern on input lag, but they could definitely use a frame boost. I’m going to give this a try today. 😀
Like the others said, you should probably clarify your question, it’s kind of unclear what you’re asking.
If you mean using GE Proton versions, they are just available in your game management options in Gaming mode once you’ve installed them, just like any other Proton version is.
If you mean downloading / installing them, I’m not sure what your objection would be regarding doing that in Desktop mode… using ProtonUp-Qt to do it is really quick and simple.
If it’s the length of time for booting back and forth between Gaming mode and native Desktop mode that’s your pain point, you can always just use Nested Desktop to flip over to your Desktop mode functions while you’re in Gaming mode and eliminate most of that wait time. I cover how to set that up in this post here.
If you have an alternating orange and white power LED, it means that the Deck is struggling to charge at at least the rate that it would on the official chargers (40W or 45W).
This could be you using an alternate (and lower power than the official) power adapter, or it could have been an electrical issue where you were plugged in, and there was some issue with the current you were drawing. Or maybe the power adapter you’re using is on its last legs and isn’t acting correctly consistently.
For your future reference, here’s an old Reddit thread I found back when I got my OLED Steam Deck; I bookmarked it to keep the light codes handy.
I’m on the current beta stable release, and it’s working fine for me.
Be aware that if you’re already charged to 100%, and you play primarily plugged in and/or docked, it’s going to take a while to work down to the level you set it at.
I do, and I set mine at 85%… it probably took 20 to 25 hours to go from 100% -> 85%. Now it sits consistently between 83% to 85% while plugged in.
Pretty sure it’s doing that slow drain on purpose because it’s better for long term battery health.
EDIT: Forgot to mention I use an OLED Deck. I also had an LCD Deck, but that was before the arrival of the charge limiting.
All Steam Decks come with an SSD of varying sizes for their base storage, so you definitely have one. If I remember correctly the original 64GB LCD model had a slower nvme SSD, but all the other models should be similar performance SSD-wise.
Maybe if you have an LCD Deck, and I have an OLED, that was the difference? I know they don’t function much differently in most ways, but I have heard that there are some slight background tech differences between them that have them perform differently in some scenarios.
Can’t say we didn’t try though!
I did get into the game, I was playing it for almost half an hour the other day.
Did you run Heroic using Proton? Because if so you definitely don’t want to do that, Heroic itself should be run without compatibility tools.
Let me give it another go today, I haven’t changed anything since I ran it over the weekend.
Edit: So in the end, I was able to load it up and play it again. There are some stutters here and there, and loading screens take a bit (not sure if this a native property of the game, or that we’re running it with Proton).
Also I did an additional test where I installed and ran the game off of an SD card (since I had to reinstall anyway), and that was not stable, the game kept crashing. So if you’re trying to run it off an SD card, you should probably try to put it on your native SSD.
The weirdest thing is that it kept going into an unresolvable update loop when I first started trying to play it today. It would try to update, stop, try again, stop, on and on, but never finished. I had to uninstall and reinstall (tried SD card first, then moved it to the SSD where it worked fine). That felt like something going on with Epic honestly.
You’re welcome! Have fun!
This one doesn’t seem like it’s my normal cup of tea but I might have to give it a go further than the first ten minutes, I really like the aesthetic lol
Yes, but crucially, in Desktop mode, not Gaming mode. It didn’t work when I tried it from Gaming mode!
Never mind, I got it running!
So, I realized that I hadn’t tried it in native Desktop mode, and it can be important, it works a little differently to Gaming mode in the background. And that was it.
Go to Desktop Mode (native Desktop mode using the power menu option, not Nested Desktop)
Right click Steam icon on the taskbar > Library
Find Heroic Games launcher on your library list and run it
Just launch the game in Heroic like you normally do. My Heroic launcher knew to use a recent version of GE Proton automatically, I didn’t have to tell it.
Worked like a charm.
Super cute game btw lol
EDIT: I can’t remember if Heroic is naturally Steam launchable or not. If not, just add it as non-steam game. You might not even have to launch Heroic from steam, I do it for convenience, but if that was part of the magic formula then that’s how you do it.
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For reals though, there aren’t many Proton DB entries for this one, but one Deck user reported they used GE-Proton 9-16. So I’d download that version of GE Proton if you haven’t and give that a go.
Ah, see, you misheard.
That wasn’t the free game of the week, it was the FREEZE game of the week.
Yay! Glad to hear that you found the solution!